BookStack is my new writing jam!
Self-hosted and the editor is clean and fast to use, supports drafts and versioning and can be customised with web fonts by overriding with some simple CSS. So I have my nice Victorian typeface back for my titles and it feels much tidier.
It looks like it has support for searchable meta-tags, notes and attachments as well, but I can play with those once I have a few documents ported over.
Overall, quite happy so far. I'll work out how to back it up tomorrow...